Tag Archives: menswear

18th Century Style Jabot or Cravat

The Purim schpiel was based on Hamilton, and the costumes Joe and I altered/reused/repurposed/added to were 18th Century style, more specifically Revolutionary War style.  From scratch I made several jabots or cravats that I copied from one I found that buttons on to a blouse.  They aren’t 100% authentic by far, but if you need that quick final touch on a men’s Revulutionary War or French court or basically 1740s to 1780 costume, below are photos and instructions.

You’ll need some white or ivory lace or eyelet lace trim that’s already gathered up (as opposed to the totally flat kind, 1 3/4″ to 2 1/4″ wide, and probably only about 60″ of it, as well as less than a yard of white or ivory cotton, quilting weight or lighter, matching thread, and either some velcro or snaps.

17160455_1190929741017756_439392300_n

Here is the jabot from the original blouse.

17197945_1192809437496453_1330423130_n

They sewed a ruffle to a rectangular base of the same fabric.

17198806_1192809454163118_901705689_n

The back, where you can see it was sewn in a zigzag pattern.

First cut a neck band 5 or 6″ wide and the wearer’s neck measurement long plus 2 1/2″ for overlap and so it isn’t skin tight (people’s necks are from 13 or 14″ to 17 or 18″). Cut a base for the lace 7″ wide and 8″ tall.

Make a narrow hem on all 4 sides of the neck band.  Fold the base in half lengthwise, stitch around the bottom and long side, trim corners, turn right side out, and press.

17204384_1192809404163123_563596530_n17203929_1192809420829788_1984543506_n17198023_1192809584163105_1391324891_n

Starting at the bottom of the base, sew the lace trim in a diagonal pattern all the way across the base and work your way up to the top.  Fold extra under at the bottom so the raw edge doesn’t stick out.  I didn’t finish my edge, but it’ll look nicer folded under.  At the top go straight across with a bit folded under.  Use the very top because that’s the seam allowance for when you attach it to the neck band.

17238299_1192809504163113_1131315185_n17204503_1192809517496445_1062954948_n17238379_1192809530829777_598776437_n17203484_1192809490829781_299292285_n17204536_1192809550829775_908416198_n

Tack the top fold of lace to the base because it will want to flip up when it’s worn.

17238202_1192809577496439_167610058_n

Here are some photos of the finished lace base part.

17204536_1192809550829775_908416198_n

17198136_1192809470829783_1891714359_n

And the kinds of trim you can use (also regular lace trim).

Gather the ends of the neck band and two places between the ends.  When you look at paintings and fashion plates of men’s costume of the time, the part around their necks usually looks like a scarf that’s wider than their necks are tall.  Sew the velcro or snaps to the ends, overlapping the ends.  Then sew the lace and base piece to the center of the bottom long side of the neck band.

17204267_1192809590829771_2093749356_n17161009_1190929091017821_675382348_n17198432_1192809394163124_1700154233_n17198533_1192809417496455_1072385706_n17203822_1192809374163126_550488428_n17204360_1192809624163101_1826070342_n

How wide the trim is affects how much you’ll need.  Wider trim uses less, narrower trim uses more.

17238043_1192809560829774_1142095955_n17203647_1192809610829769_2071808895_n17198775_1192809600829770_1613992735_n

While not perfectly authentic, it will work if you’re in a hurry.  I think it took me less than 30 minutes to cut and sew one.

Comments, questions, suggestions?  Yes, please!  Thanks for reading!

Advertisements

Leave a comment

Filed under Garments

Sewing a single welt pocket

Here is how to sew a single welt pocket, as in a pocket that has a single welt, not a double welt like I’ve shown in my men’s vest posts.  It’s a bit easier than a double welt, but not by much.  Whether you use a single or double welt pocket on a vest, a pair of pants or whatever is pretty much up to you.  If you’re doing menswear, sometimes you go with what they’ve been doing for years, but if it’s for yourself, do what you want, I guess.  I have used woven fabrics.  I have never done this with stretch wovens (there are plenty of stretch woven pants with single welt pockets), nor with knits (I’ve never seen that, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist).

I apologize that the photos aren’t great.  I used my phone, which doesn’t give the best photos.  Some day I’ll have someone do better photos, at least of all these different seams, darts, pockets, etc.

These instructions are from Fashion Incubator.

Please comment, ask questions, etc.

Once you know how wide you want the finished pocket opening to be, cut the welt (the off white piece on the left) to be 2" longer than that.  If you want a pocket with a 6" opening, cut the welt 8 x 3".  Cut an underwelt the same length but 1/2" shorter.  In this case, it's 8 x 2 1/2" and the maroon piece. Cut a piece of interfacing for the welt 1/4" smaller than the welt (7 3/4" x 2 3/4") and a piece for the underwelt 1/4" smaller (7 3/4" x 2 1/4"); they're the white pieces on the right.  Cut the pocket bag pieces to be the same width (8" in this case) and the depth you need.  For the vests I made, they're only 2-3" deep.  For a breast pocket, at least that deep, but maybe deep enough for a pen or a glasses case.  The green pocket bag piece is the shorter one, 3 1/2", and gets sewn to the underwelt.  The tan piece gets sewn to the welt and is 4".

Once you know how wide you want the finished pocket opening to be, cut the welt (the off white piece on the left) to be 2″ longer than that. If you want a pocket with a 6″ opening, cut the welt 8 x 3″. Cut an underwelt the same length but 1/2″ shorter. In this case, it’s 8 x 2 1/2″ and the maroon piece. Cut a piece of interfacing for the welt 1/4″ smaller than the welt (7 3/4″ x 2 3/4″) and a piece for the underwelt 1/4″ smaller (7 3/4″ x 2 1/4″); they’re the white pieces on the right. Cut the pocket bag pieces to be the same width (8″ in this case) and the depth you need. For the vests I made, they’re only 2-3″ deep. For a breast pocket, at least that deep, but maybe deep enough for a pen or a glasses case. The green pocket bag piece is the shorter one, 3 1/2″, and gets sewn to the underwelt. The tan piece gets sewn to the welt and is 4″.

Fuse the interfacing to the welt and underwelt.  If your garment doesn't already have interfacing where the pocket needs to go (you would have already put interfacing on a men's jacket or vest or you should have), add a piece where the pocket will go.  It doesn't have to be as large as I've shown, but it does need to be the same width as the welt.  If you don't have or don't want to use fusible interfacing, use sew on kind (actual interfacing or some fabric that would work).  Mark on the interfacing of the garment (the blue fabric) where the ends of the pocket will go (my dots are 6" apart).  Mark on the wrong side of the welt a set of lines (use a disappearing ink or chalk, not the ball point pen I used for this sample).  The marks for the welt are 1" from each end (the vertical lines) and two parallel horizontal lines.  The lower line is 1" from the bottom of the fabric and the upper line is 1/2" from that.  Now rotate the welt 180 degrees so that the long line 1" from the edge is at the top.

Fuse the interfacing to the welt and underwelt. If your garment doesn’t already have interfacing where the pocket needs to go (you would have already put interfacing on a men’s jacket or vest or you should have), add a piece where the pocket will go. It doesn’t have to be as large as I’ve shown, but it does need to be the same width as the welt. If you don’t have or don’t want to use fusible interfacing, use sew on kind (actual interfacing or some fabric that would work). Mark on the interfacing of the garment (the blue fabric) where the ends of the pocket will go (my dots are 6″ apart). Mark on the wrong side of the welt a set of lines (use a disappearing ink or chalk, not the ball point pen I used for this sample). The marks for the welt are 1″ from each end (the vertical lines) and two parallel horizontal lines. The lower line is 1″ from the bottom of the fabric and the upper line is 1/2″ from that. Now rotate the welt 180 degrees so that the long line 1″ from the edge is at the top.

Put pins through the dots on the garment interfacing to mark where the pocket goes on the right side.  Put the welt on the garment, right sides together.  Pin it like this.

Put pins through the dots on the garment interfacing to mark where the pocket goes on the right side. Put the welt on the garment, right sides together. Pin it like this.

Stitch on the two long parallel lines.  Start at one of the short lines and end at the other.  Make sure your stitching ends up the same length.

Stitch on the two long parallel lines. Start at one of the short lines and end at the other. Make sure your stitching ends up the same length.  Oops, the yellow thread doesn’t show up very well.

Here is the stitching from the garment side.

Here is the stitching from the garment side.

Press the long lower side away from you at the stitching.  Also press up the ends that aren't stitched.

Press the long lower side away from you at the stitching. Also press up the ends that aren’t stitched.

Press down the other long side.

Press down the other long side.

Cut between the lines you stitched.  See how the cutting ends up angling toward the stitching at the ends?  You want to cut it this way.  Go up to but not through the stitching.

Cut between the lines you stitched. See how the cutting ends up angling toward the stitching at the ends? You want to cut it this way. Go up to but not through the stitching.

The cut from the other side.

The cut from the other side.

Turn the welt to the inside of the garment.  Check both sides.  If you haven't cut far enough, the corners of the opening will look puckered.  You can snip a bit more.

Turn the welt to the inside of the garment. Check both sides. If you haven’t cut far enough, the corners of the opening will look puckered. You can snip a bit more.

Lift up the edges of the welt and press open the seams.

Lift up the edges of the welt and press open the seams.

Press the upper half of the welt up, pulling a bit to the inside, as you would a facing.  Fold the lower half so it will fill the opening and try to keep it an evenly straight line.  Don't fold too far up or you'll have a hard time getting your hand into it.  If I had known, I would have used a cotton that would have held the pressing a bit better.

Press the upper half of the welt up, pulling a bit to the inside, as you would a facing. Fold the lower half so it will fill the opening and try to keep it an evenly straight line. Don’t fold too far up or you’ll have a hard time getting your hand into it. If I had known, I would have used a cotton that would have held the pressing a bit better.

Pull the garment aside like this with the welt right side down.  That triangle point is what you just cut.  Stitch on the line that was pressed.

Pull the garment aside like this with the welt right side down. That triangle point is what you just cut. Stitch on the line that was pressed.

Here, that triangle is stitched down.  Be careful to not catch the garment fabric in it.

Here, that triangle is stitched down. Be careful to not catch the garment fabric in it.

How stitching that triangle looks from the other side.

How stitching that triangle looks from the other side.

Sew the pocket bags to the welt and the underwelt with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Sew the pocket bags to the welt and the underwelt with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Here, the pocket bags are  sewn to the welt and underwelt and pressed.  Since most pocket bags are lining fabric, which is usually fairly light, press the seam allowances toward the lining, away from the welt and underwelt.

Here, the pocket bags are sewn to the welt and underwelt and pressed. Since most pocket bags are lining fabric, which is usually fairly light, press the seam allowances toward the lining, away from the welt and underwelt.  (The gray between the welt and the blue is just a shadow.)

With the garment fabric on top, pin the underwelt/pocket bag unit to the welt/pocket bag unit, at least at the top corner.  Start stitching at the bottom of the pocket bag.  Go up to the top of the welt, pivot, go to the other end, pivot, go down the other side, pivot, and go across the bottom.  Use a 1/4" seam allowance.

With the garment fabric on top, pin the underwelt/pocket bag unit to the welt/pocket bag unit, at least at the top corner. Start stitching at the bottom of the pocket bag. Go up to the top of the welt, pivot, go to the other end, pivot, go down the other side, pivot, and go across the bottom. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Here the welt and underwelt units are stitched together.  Keep the garment fabric out of the way.

Here the welt and underwelt units are stitched together. Keep the garment fabric out of the way.

Showing the welt side.

Showing the welt side.

Here is the finished pocket from the front.  As you can see, I wasn't that careful with pressing the fold in the welt evenly.  My ends still pucker a bit, but that is because the scrap I used for the welt is heavier than this blue poly-cotton.

Here is the finished pocket from the front. As you can see, I wasn’t that careful with pressing the fold in the welt evenly. My ends still pucker a bit, but that is because the scrap I used for the welt is heavier than this blue poly-cotton.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Parts