I designed and made 3 A-line skirts with wide waistbands. In summer I wear T shirts over skirts and capri pants. The T shirts are long enough that they sometimes squish the top of the skirt. So I made the waist fitted and wider so the rest of the skirt wouldn’t be squished. I traced my skirt sloper and marked where I wanted the fitted part to stop. I cut that then closed the darts. Then I made the bottom of the skirt wider so that it flared out in A-line style. I don’t have any photos of how I made the pattern, but below are how I sewed it together.
First fuse the interfacing to the upper skirt pieces (you’ll see in later photos).
I made a CB (center back) seam because I think it’s so MUCH easier to sew a zipper on a straight line than it is to do so on a curved one, which the side seam sometimes is.
Normal seam allowance is 3/8″ but I like to use 5/8″ by the zipper.
Next, sew the upper skirt pieces to the lower skirt pieces. Leave the facing pieces for a little later.
Next, sew the side seams of the facing pieces.
Remember that the iron is your friend. Press all seams flat (how they look when you sew them, like the facing side seam above on the right), then open the pieces and either press them open/butterflied or to one side (usually to one side is for the seam that joins the sleeve cap to the armscye [armhole]).
Now insert the zipper. It’s actually not hard, ends up looking really nice, and if you’ve always had problems with them, I’m walking you through it. Also, check out the centered zipper template and construction tutorials on www.fashion-incubator.com/tutorials/ and you might need to look at the lapped ones as well for more info.
If you’re not sure which side, hold the zipper and the skirt together how they will look when finished then turn them how they’re sewn.
You might have to open and close the zipper as you do so to prevent crooked sewing.
Now sew the side seams of the skirt then the facing around the zipper.
Don’t go all the way to the bottom of the facing, just to where the upper/lower skirt seam is. You need that little bit of facing to fold under later.
Press under the bottom of the facing a little. You might have to experiment with how much. You want the bottom to be caught when you topstitch from the right side, but you don’t want it too much or too little. You can also hand sew the facing with a whip stitch or whichever stitch will work.
Here’s the topstitching along the upper skirt.
I’m sure you noticed I didn’t quite get it even. But the topstitching is why I didn’t have you understitch the facing at the waistline.
Finally, press and stitch the hem.
Press the hem and any other wrinkles.
And there you go!