A-Line Skirt with Wide Waist

I designed and made 3 A-line skirts with wide waistbands.  In summer I wear T shirts over skirts and capri pants.  The T shirts are long enough that they sometimes squish the top of the skirt.  So I made the waist fitted and wider so the rest of the skirt wouldn’t be squished.  I traced my skirt sloper and marked where I wanted the fitted part to stop.  I cut that then closed the darts.  Then I made the bottom of the skirt wider so that it flared out in A-line style.  I don’t have any photos of how I made the pattern, but below are how I sewed it together.

First fuse the interfacing to the upper skirt pieces (you’ll see in later photos).

Sew the CB seam.

I made a CB (center back) seam because I think it’s so MUCH easier to sew a zipper on a straight line than it is to do so on a curved one, which the side seam sometimes is.

Start from the hem and go up to just a bit past where the seam allowance width changes.

Normal seam allowance is 3/8″ but I like to use 5/8″ by the zipper.

Next, sew the upper skirt pieces to the lower skirt pieces.  Leave the facing pieces for a little later.

The upper skirt back from the wrong side.

The upper skirt backs from the right side

Upper skirt front from the wrong side

Upper skirt front from the right side

Next, sew the side seams of the facing pieces.

Sew the facing seams

Remember that the iron is your friend.  Press all seams flat (how they look when you sew them, like the facing side seam above on the right), then open the pieces and either press them open/butterflied or to one side (usually to one side is for the seam that joins the sleeve cap to the armscye [armhole]).

Press the CB seam open, including the top part where there’s no stitching, where the zipper goes.

Same seam from the right side.

Now  insert the zipper.  It’s actually not hard, ends up looking really nice, and if you’ve always had problems with them, I’m walking you through it.  Also, check out the centered zipper template and construction tutorials on www.fashion-incubator.com/tutorials/ and you might need to look at the lapped ones as well for more info.

First, sew one side of the zipper tape to one of the seam allowances.

If you’re not sure which side, hold the zipper and the skirt together how they will look when finished then turn them how they’re sewn.

Sew the other side of the zipper tape to the other seam allowance.

You might have to open and close the zipper as you do so to prevent crooked sewing.

The zipper from the right side.

Now sew the side seams of the skirt then the facing around the zipper.

Side seam from the wrong side

Side seam from the right side.

Sew the CB of the facing to the CB of the skirt, right next to the zipper.

Don’t go all the way to the bottom of the facing, just to where the upper/lower skirt seam is.  You need that little bit of facing to fold under later.

How it looks when you fold it back.

Now fold it the other way and sew the facing to the skirt at the waistline.

The facing clipped, folded to the inside and pressed.

Another view. See how the facing doesn’t cover the zipper but the skirt does? You want it this way.

Press under the bottom of the facing a little.  You might have to experiment with how much.  You want the bottom to be caught when you topstitch from the right side, but you don’t want it too much or too little.  You can also hand sew the facing with a whip stitch or whichever stitch will work.

Bottom of facing turned under and ready to sew.

Here’s the topstitching along the upper skirt.

Upper skirt topstitching

Topstitching along the zipper

I’m sure you noticed I didn’t quite get it even.  But the topstitching is why I didn’t have you understitch the facing at the waistline.

Finally, press and stitch the hem.

Press the hem up the full width (about 1 1/2″ in this case).

Then press the 2nd fold (never press a hem under just once–you don’t want any raw edge).

The hem stitched from the wrong side.

Hem stitched, shown from the right side.

Press the hem and any other wrinkles.

Here is the finished skirt, from the front. The back is nearly the same.

And there you go!

Advertisements

2 Comments

Filed under Garments

2 responses to “A-Line Skirt with Wide Waist

  1. Kate

    Happy World Trade Centre bombing day?!?! What the hell is wrong with you?

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s