In April, I made a long-sleeved lined jacket with ruffles out of emerald green duppioni silk. I don’t think I have a photo yet of the final finished product, but I will get one. The armscyes ended up being too tight because the 2-piece sleeve that worked in cotton didn’t work in silk. This silk has less give.
Here is the pattern layout:
No, the tins aren’t actually filled with candy. I have these weird lead weights I stuck in them because I only recently found they’re lead and didn’t want to touch them anymore.
Notice I’ve been weighting the pattern pieces and NOT pinning them down. When you weight them and trace around them with chalk, pen, china marker, etc., you cut the pieces more accurately. Don’t take my word for it. Try this way and the pinning way and see for yourself or read it on http://www.fashion-incubator.com.
Here is a photo of a measuring gauge you can get at the fabric store. It comes in handy to measure hems and other things.
Note that the iron is your friend. If you don’t have an iron and an ironing board, buy or borrow them. They’re cheap and you might be able to find them used. W/o pressing, you can’t get a nice professional look on anything. Do you want to look sloppy and amateurish or do you want to look as good as or better than the stuff in magazines or stores?
Here are the sewing steps, starting with fusing the interfacing. I use the kind that’s the tricot knit. It has a grain so can take more of it, but I’ve never had a problem with it. I seem to have one problem or another with the nonwoven fiber type.
When you fuse the interfacing to the fabric, make sure the interfacing is glue side down. Put a pressing cloth over it (mine is a piece of silk organza) and spray with water (just over the pieces, not the whole cloth). Set the iron over it for a few seconds, lift, and move to the spot next to it. Don’t slide the iron.
Press every seam and the facings, both wrong sides and right sides.
For the facings, stitch them right sides together to the places they go (neckline, whatever), press. Clip all the curves and corners, to but not through the stitching. Understitch: pull the facing and the seam allowances out away from the rest of the garment and stitch the seam allowance to the facing. Fold the facing back inside and press. You will see that there is about 1/16 to 1/8 inch of the shell pulling in around the facing. This is good and what you want.
For the lining…since I didn’t line the sleeves, it was easier to put in. Leave the middle part of the side seam of the lining open. Then sew the edge of the lining to the bottom edges of the facings. Pull through the side seam and press flat, with the seam going toward the lining. Then topstitch the side seam closed.
To add the ruffles, I first zigzagged over some string along one of the hems of each ruffle. Then I pinned the ruffles to the sleeve hems and to the neckline/cf/hem of the jacket bodice. I pulled on the string to gather each ruffle, adjusted them, and pinned them in place. With a straight stitch, I stitched them to the hems. Some people gather things by running 2 lines of basting stitches along the spot they want to gather then pulling those threads. This only works for short pieces and fabrics that aren’t heavy. One machine I had wouldn’t work well enough to let me do it. But for longer lengths, zigzag over some string or crochet cotton.
Sorry to take so long to add this photo of the completed jacket!
That’s it for now. Please let me know if any steps are unclear or if you have any other questions.